JoeWoodworker
JoeWoodworker Veneer
The Official Website of this Non-Professional Woodworker ™

Part 1
Introduction

Welcome
Veneering Basics

14 Good Reasons
Vacuum Press Uses
Vacuum Press Options
Overview

Questions & Answers
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Part 2a (Option 1 of 2)
Project: V2 Venturi Press

About Project: V2
Parts List
Build the Manifold
Build the Reservoirs
Assemble the Venturi
Make the Carrier
Wire the Press
Testing and Adjusting
Mods and Options
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Part 2b (Option 2 of 2)
Project: EVS Pump Press

About Project: EVS
Parts List
Pump Selection
Build the Manifold
Build the Sub-Manifold
Build the Reservoirs
Make the Carrier
Final Assembly
Wire the Press
Testing and Adjusting
Mods and Options
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Part 3
Vacuum Bagging

Vacuum Bag Basics
Polyurethane vs. Vinyl
DIY Vacuum Bags (A)
DIY Vacuum Bags (B)
Connect the Bag
Bag Closures
Bag Platens
Breather Mesh
Maintenance
DIY Frame Press

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Part 4
Veneer Information

About Veneer
Veneering Glossary
Veneering Myths
Backer Veneer

Veneer Glues
Veneering Tips
Substrate Materials
Flattening Veneers
A Sharp Veneer Saw
Jointing Veneers
Taping Veneers
Dealing with Defects
Curing Glued Panels
Veneering w/o Vacuum
Hammer Veneering
Iron-On Veneering
Veneer Storage
Amazing Bookmatches
Copper Veneer Guide
Paperbacked Veneer

Edgebanding Guide
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Part 5
Miscellaneous Info

Vacuum Forming
Vacuum Chucking
Vacuum Clamping
Vacuum Clamp Matrix
DIY Vacuum Manifold
Vacuum Press Gallery 1
Vacuum Press Gallery 2
Veneering FAQ
Veneer Glue FAQ
The Vac FAQ
Copper Veneer FAQ
Downloads (PDF's)

VeneerSupplies.com

Vacuum Veneering - Tips, Tricks, and More

Backing/Balance Veneer - Important Yet Overlooked

Backer veneers are often lower grade sheets that are inexpensive and easy to work with. They are critical to achieving and maintaining a perfectly flat panel. If the back of the panel will show, most craftsmen would choose to use a veneer of similar color, grain, and species. When the back side of the panel will be unseen, a backer grade veneer is the way to affordably complete the panel. You can find cheap sheets of veneer on the VeneerSupplies.com website.

The normally-visible side of a veneered panel is often called the "face" side and obviously it is an important part of the project. But there is no point in making a beautiful veneered panel if warps. Unfortunately, most woodworkers don't realize that both sides of a panel must be veneered in order to avoid the tragic effects of an unbalanced panel. To balance the panel, a "backing" or "balance" veneer is unused on the opposite side of the substrate. This guide will explain the what and why of using backer veneer.

Why Backer Veneer is Needed
In most parts of the world, ambient humidity fluctuates from season to season. Changes in humidity cause wood cells to expand and contract which can cause the entire veneer part of the panel to grow and shrink. The movement occurs even when the panel has a urethane, lacquer, or other finish applied.

A backer veneer is also called a balance veneer because it balances out the stress on the substrate caused by the expansion and contraction of wood cells in the veneer. When a veneer is bonded to both sides of the panel, each side is equally expanding and contracting and thus the panel is "balanced" - the stress of the wood cell movement is similar on both sides of the panel.

Here is a deeper explanation of both reasons for using a backer veneer.

Short Term Veneered Panel Stability
Most veneer glues contain water which causes wood cells to expand upon contact. When a panel is removed from the vacuum press (or other clamping method), the moisture from the adhesive will evaporate and the veneer will shrink slightly. By this time, the adhesive will have set its "grip" on the substrate and veneer. The shrinking veneer will pull on the substrate and cause it to warp.

A balance or backing veneer is used on the opposite side of the substrate. It is called a "balance" veneer because it balances the pulling action of the face veneer and helps keep the substrate flat while the glue dries. It is important to allow both the face and back side veneers to dry evenly once the panel is removed from the press. See this page for details.

Long Term Veneered Panel Stability
Veneering both sides of the substrate is also important to the long term durability of the panel. Seasonal changes in humidity will cause wood cells to expand and contract. A coat or two of lacquer, varnish, or polyurethane will significantly reduce the speed of moisture change in the panel but it will not completely eliminate it. When the moisture content of the veneer changes, it will again place stress on the substrate. By balancing the panel with a veneer on the back side, those stresses are kept even and panel stays flat.

When to Apply a Backer Veneer
A backer veneer can be applied immediately after the face veneer is pressed (but before the glue dries completely). If you work quickly, you can just press the backer veneer and the face veneer at the same time.

Other Things You Should Know

  • Almost any veneer will work as a backer veneer. The key is to use a veneer of similar thickness and grain orientation. It should also be noted that the backer veneer should not be a paperbacked or 2-ply veneer unless the face veneer is also paperbacked or 2-ply. In other words, if the face veneer is a raw wood veneer, then the backer veneer should also be a raw wood veneer.
       
  • There are some adhesives which contain little or no water. The advantage is the slight decrease in warping potential while the downside is that these adhesives are notoriously harmful to your health and the environment.
     
  • PPR veneer glues do not dry through evaporation. Instead a PPR glue dries through a chemical process. These types of glue take 4 to 6 hours of pressing. During that drying/pressing time, the panel is kept flat by the clamping means (a vacuum press is the preferred method) so it usually comes out flat and stays flat for several days. Learn more about veneer glue by clicking here.
     
  • Thinner substrates are more prone to severe warping than thicker substrates.
     
  • While it's true that the thickness of the substrate has an effect on the amount of potential warping, it should also be noted that some substrate materials are less likely to warp than others. Plywood (3/4" thick) is less prone to severe warping. MDF and particle board lack the strength of plywood and may allow more warping. Learn more about substrates at this link.
     
  • Very thick or very long substrates often can be forced to lay flat on your project framework with screws, clamps, or glue if a backer veneer is not used.
     
  • Paperbacked and 2-ply veneers are more dimensionally stable than raw wood veneers and do not impose as much stress upon the substrate. Many cabinetmakers do not veneer both sides of a panel if they are using this type of veneer.

Common Question...
Do I absolutely have to use backer/balance veneer?

That depends on your tolerance for warping. If you are using a thick substrate and the panel is small or it is well braced, you might get by without a backer veneer. Is it worth the risk? Probably not.

The question really should be "Should I use backer/balance veneer?" and the answer is a resounding yes!

All substrates will warp if you only veneer one side. The question is how much it will warp? With the information in the chart below, you would find that a flat cut maple veneer applied to a large, thin MDF substrate that is not braced, balanced, or cured properly would warp tremendously.

Characteristic Less Warping More Warping
Substrate Type Plywood MDF, Particle Board
Substrate Thickness 3/4" 1/4"
Panel Balanced Properly Yes No
Veneer Species Walnut Maple
Veneer Grain Burl (typically) Others (especial crotch grain)
Veneer Cut Quartersawn, Rift Flat Cut, Rotary
Panel Size Small Large
Panel Braced/Supported Yes No
Panel Cured Properly Yes No

 

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