1. What is a backing or balance veneer and why do I have to use it?
2. What is paperbacked veneer and why should I use it?
3. My panel warped when I removed it from the press. Why?
4. My friend uses contact cement for veneering. Should I try it?
5. Will veneer softener or sizing affect the ability of the veneer to take a stain?
6. How much coverage will I get from a gallon of cold press glue?
7. How do I use the veneer saw?
8. What can be done to prevent the veneer from curling up as soon as it's laid onto the glue and substrate?
9. Can a vacuum press be used for veneering over a bending form?
10. I've had some panels come out of the veneer press looking perfect. Then a few minutes later, the veneer began to bubble/ripple. Why is this happening?
11. The veneer tape left markings on the veneer that didn't show up until I applied the stain. What causes this? How can I prevent it? How do I fix my panel?
12. I don't have a vacuum press. Is there any other way to veneer a panel?
13. How do I know how much veneer glue to apply?
14. Can I leave the veneered panels in the press overnight?
15. After my veneer arrives, what is the best way to store it?
16. I'm using a paperbacked veneer but the veneer glue isn't giving me a good bond. Any suggestions?
17. I want to adhere a piece of veneer to plexiglass. What adhesive should I use?
18. Why would I buy a complete vacuum press system if it's so much cheaper to use the Heat Lock glue and a clothes iron for veneering?
19. What is that mirror jig that I've seen in books that makes the veneer patterns?
20. What can I do to extend the open time on the cold press veneer glue?
21. I can't find 1/8" thick veneer. Why is it so hard to find?
22. Is it ok to use a paperbacked veneer as the "balance" or backing veneer on a panel if the face veneer is unbacked?
23. When I buy veneer sheets, how do I order them so that they can be bookmatched?
24. How do I go about sanding a veneer?

VQ1: What is a backing or balance veneer and why do I have to use it?

The normally visible side of a veneered panel is often called the "face" side and it's an important part of the project look. The back side of a panel is often forgotten despite the fact that it is a critical part of a successful veneer project. The veneer used on this (often) unseen side is called a "backing" or "balance" veneer.

These are usually straight-grained hardwood veneers that are inexpensive and easy to work with. A balance veneer does not have to be a lesser grade veneer if the back of the panel will show. In that case, most craftsmen would choose to use a veneer of similar color, grain, and species. But when the back side of the panel will be unseen, a backer grade veneer is the way to complete the panel without spending a fortune.

More information is available at this link.

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VQ2: What is paperbacked veneer and why should I use it?

Paperbacked veneer is exactly what the name implies. It's a real wood veneer permanently bonded to a paper backing. The backing is generally available in a 10 and a 20 mil thickness.

A 10 mil backing is best for most projects . However, a 20 mil version is available for situations where the substrate is less than perfectly flat. In this case, the extra paper thickness allows the veneer maintain a more consistent look after application. Keep in mind that the 10 and 20 mil thickness is a reference to the thickness of the paper backing, not the veneer face.

Check out this link for more information.

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VQ3: My panel warped when I removed it from the press. Why?

After removing a glued up veneer from the press, do not use it immediately. Wait at least 6 hours for the glue to fully cure. During this drying period, be sure to store the panel on a flat surface with ½" dowels under it. Space them 10 to 12 inches apart. Don’t be tempted to just toss it on the workbench. The glue on the top surface will continue to dry while the underside, being starved for air, will remain uncured. This will result in a warped panel. Even the thickest substrate material will warp if stored incorrectly. For thinner substrates, it is a good idea to place dowels and another board on top of the veneered panel.

On small panels, use a few spring clamps to suspend the veneered panel from a ½" dowel, as shown below. This will allow the panel to dry evenly on both sides.

Substrates less than ½" will warp slightly if they are not framed in a wood border within a few days of pressing. So, if you have no use for a veneered panel, don't make one. Generally speaking, thinner substrates warp faster and more perceptibly.

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VQ4: My friend uses contact cement for veneering with raw wood. Should I try it?

There is one big problem with contact cement. It doesnt dry hard. Wood veneer is just as prone to seasonal movement as regular lumber. And the strength of the veneer can very often be greater than the strength of the contact cement. I have tried every "industrial" contact cement I can find and so far, nothing offers the permanent bond than a raw wood veneer requires.

Contact cement is only good for paperbacked veneers (and 2 ply wood veneers) because the backing prevents (or minimizes) the veneer movement.

I then put the back outside overnight (it went down to about 55F that night) to shrink the back. The back shrunk but the veneer rippled rather than going back like it was originally. The cracks did not close. The ripples were much smaller on the inside and cannot really be seen in the photo. The ripples on the outside are still there as seen in the photo. It has been 5 days since the experiment and the ripples are still there."

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VQ5: Will veneer softener affect the ability of the veneer to take a stain?

No. See the product page (by clicking on the image) for full details about the softener.

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VQ6: How much coverage will I get from a gallon of cold press glue?

One gallon of glue should cover between 175 and 225 square foot of core material. Roughly both sides of 3 4x8's.

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VQ7: How do I use the veneer saw?

Cutting veneer with a veneer saw is simple. Place a straight edge along the projected seam/cut line, and lightly saw into the veneer (along the entire length of the seam) until the cut is complete. It is imperative that the straightedge be absolutely true. While sawing the veneer, place adequate pressure downward on the straightedge. You should also make certain to hold the saw 90° to the veneer face by keeping it firmly pressed against the straightedge. For more details, please click here.

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VQ8: What can be done to prevent the veneer from curling up as soon as it's laid onto the glue and substrate?

Veneers have a tendency to curl up quickly when they are placed upon a glue-prep'd substrate. Veneer softener won't work and sometimes spritzing the top surface with water creates problems in and of itself.

I use a few small pieces of blue, "clean release" masking tape to hold the edges down. I place a few strips on the top edge of the veneer before putting it on the substrate. I press the tape around the edges of the substrate as soon as I put the veneer down.

Note:Once under vacuum pressure, the blue tape really sticks well to the veneer so removal can be tricky. So apply as little tape as possible for best results.

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VQ9: Can a vacuum press be used for veneering over a bending form?

I have to admit that I don't so much bent or curved veneer work. However, I have received countless emails from builders of this press who have successfully completed projects of this caliber. Each has said that as long as there is 20" of vacuum, curved work can be completed with this system. Check this page for pictures. They also recommended using polyurethane bags instead of the vinyl if there are highly exaggerated curves.

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VQ10: I've had some panels come out of the veneer press and look perfect. Then a few minutes later, the veneer began to bubble or ripple. Why is this happening?

There are three possible explanations. I'll list them in the order of which they are most commonly found.

The most common cause is applying too much glue. I highly recommend using a glue roller to eliminate this problem. The surface should look evenly painted with glue but not dripping wet. The roller allows you to accomplish this easily.

Reason two for the bubbles/ripples is inadequate pressure while the panel is being pressed. This is very uncommon in a vacuum press but it does happen from time to time. To remedy this, simply adjust your vacuum pressure slightly higher. If you are using 18" of Hg pressure, bump it up to 20" Hg. However, if you are not using a vacuum press, you need to find a way to add additional pressure to the panel while you are clamping it.

The third reason for the bubbling may be that the panel needs to be pressed longer. Wood cells expand as the glue begins to saturated the surface of the veneer (from the water in the glue). Despite the tendency of the veneer to buckle with this added moisture, the press keeps the panel flat. The problem is that the veneer still wants to unload the buckling pressure after it comes out of the press. If the glue is not well set, the veneer will buckle within a few moments out of the press.

Tips for problem panels

• If the bubbling issue continues, try leaving the panel in the press for an hour and 45 minutes (for BetterBond standard cold press glue). Sometimes different substrates and veneers absorb the glue and allow it set much faster. Others do not, and this is when the buckling can happen.
• The only problem with leaving it in the press longer is that mold can begin to form. A few folks have left panels in the press overnight and found the veneer covered in mold the next morning. This is very common in cherry and maple but can be easily cleaned up with regular wood bleach.
• If the mold is a severe problem and you can't leave it in the press for the 1.75 hours, try placing a heating blanket around the vacuum bag during the pressing. This will significantly reduce the press time (to about 35 minutes).
• If the bubbles are still present after a pressing, you can sometimes iron over the ripples and re-flow the glue to a certain extent. Place a cotton or flannel cloth over the ripple and iron it with a clothes iron on the medium-high setting. Do this soon after the panel is pressed. The longer you wait, the more difficult it is to get the ripples out. Keep in mind, that this does not always remove the ripples completely.
• If you are using MDF as your substrate, be sure to scuff sand it with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper so it will absorb the glue. The penetration of the glue into the substrate (and veneer) is the key to the strength of the bond.

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VQ11: The veneer tape left markings on the veneer that didn't show up until I applied the stain. What causes this? How can I prevent it? How do I fix my panel?

The cause of the marking is the adhesive on the veneer tape sealing the wood cells and thereby preventing absorption of the stain. The key is to prevent the tape's glue from deeply penetrating the surface of the veneer. The penetration is frequently caused by excess moisture on the tape during application. The tape shouldn't be soaked... just lightly moistened. Over-dampening the veneer surface when removing the tape can also cause the same problem.

If you're using the 3 hole tape, you can place it on the glue side of the veneer. That will eliminate the problem all together.

Denatured alcohol will usually remove the glue residue and allow you to get better stain penetration.

Also consider using a waterless veneer tape such as the one offered at VeneerSupplies.com. This type of veneer tape does not leave any residue on the veneer face.
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VQ12: I don't have a vacuum press. Is there any other way to veneer a panel?

Here are some other ways to veneer a panel.

1. You can use the Better Bond cold press veneer glue and sandwich the veneered panel between to thick, flat boards (called platens) and put as many clamps as possible around them. The key is to evenly distribute the pressure so a thick platen (minimum of 1.5") is needed. Be certain to line the platens with wax paper so the panel doesn't get stuck inside!
2. Try iron-on veneering with Heat Lock. Click here for details.
3. You can also apply veneer in the traditional method which uses hot hide glue. Visit your local library for more information. There are several vintage books that cover this topic.
4. Paper backed veneers can be applied with contact cement or Flex-Pro glue.

For more information, check out this link.

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VQ13: How do I know how much veneer glue to apply?

The key to applying glue is to put it on evenly. The rule of thumb is that the surface of the substrate should look evenly painted with veneer glue. I've found that, by far, the easiest way is to use a dedicated glue roller. I'm not talking about the $200 imported rollers with the glue hopper on top. I prefer something simple like the one shown on the right. Of course, you can get these at VeneerSupplies.com.

A good test to see if you have applied the correct amount of glue is to place a pencil mark on the substrate and apply the glue. If you can barely see the pencil mark on the substrate (through the adhesive), you have the right amount of glue.

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VQ15: After my veneer arrives, what is the best way to store it?

If your veneer arrives rolled up, it's best to unroll it (slowly and carefully) and store it horizontally. In an ideal situation, you should place a board on top of the veneer to minimize seasonal changes in moisture content which can cause ripples. At the very least, a cover should be placed over the veneer to prevent color fading caused by exposure to UV and fluorescent light.

Some veneers will arrive with tape on the ends to prevent splitting during transit. To remove the tape without splitting the veneer, pull it off in the direction of the grain. If you pull it across the grain, it may tear the veneer. Some companies recommend that you leave the tape on the veneer until you are ready to use it. I don't recommend this practice. Why? Because veneers are capable of expanding and contracting with even the slightest change in humidity. The tape can cause the veneer to buckle when it tries to expand or split when it tries to contract. If your veneer has a split, you can prevent it from advancing by place small pieces of blue tape (or standard veneer tape) along the length of the split. This will allow the wood cells to shrink and expand each season without stressing the entire width of the veneer.

See this page for more information.

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VQ16: I'm using a paperbacked veneer but the veneer glue isn't giving me a good bond. Any suggestions?

Test the back of the paperbacked veneer by applying a single drop of water to the backing. If there is still a bead of water after 5 seconds, then the backer is creating the problem with the adhesion. The solution is to scuff sand the backer with 100 grit sandpaper. You can also wipe the backer with lacquer thinner to chemically roughen its surface. Either method will allow the moisture in the veneer glue to transfer the bonding polymers to the paper backing and will give you the quality bond you expect.

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VQ17: I want to adhere a piece of veneer to plexiglass. What adhesive should I use?

There is no adhesive specifically made to bond a porous material to plexiglass or lexan. Your best bet is to use a good grade of epoxy.

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VQ18: Why would I buy a complete vacuum press system if it's so much cheaper to use the Heat Lock glue and a clothes iron for veneering?

The iron and glue method is fine for small pieces but it has some disadvantages. To start, some veneers react negatively to the heat from the iron. I've found that bubinga and some crotch grain veneers do not respond well at all to heat. Additionally, the heat can cause the veneer to shrink which makes it difficult (but not impossible) to get tight seams between two veneers.

The vacuum press method eliminates these issues. Seams stay tight because the glue forces the wood cells to expand. The vacuum press and a good glue will give you flawless bond because you are making a "wetted" joint between the substrate and the veneer. This gives the bond "bite" and is why so many high-end furniture makers would use nothing else.

Don't get me wrong though. The iron on method is a viable veneering option. I use it from time to time on small projects and in places where a vacuum press just won't work.

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VQ19: What is that mirror jig that I've seen in books that makes the veneer patterns?

This very simple jig is used to help visualize what a quadmatch or sunburst layup of veneer will look like when complete. It consists of two mirrors held together at one end with duct tape. The tape acts as a hinge and allows you to change the angle of the mirrors. When held at the appropriate angle, the mirrors will show a multi-layered reflection of the veneer.

You can make a wood jig that sets the angle very easily. Just use a miter saw and grooves cut in a small board at 22.5, 30, and 36 degrees.

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VQ20: What can I do to extend the open time on the cold press veneer glue?

The Better Bond cold press veneer glue has an open time of 10 to 12 minutes. For larger projects, this means you need to work quickly to get the project into the bag. But there are easy ways to increase the open time to as much as 20 minutes.

You can lengthen the open time by "priming" the substrate with a 50/50 mixture of cold press veneer glue and water. Brush or roll this on to the substrate and let it dry. Then apply another coat of undiluted veneer glue to the substrate just before you attach the veneer. The primer coat will seal the pores of the substrate so the water from the glue is not pulled out. This will add 5 to 8 minutes to the open time without affecting the adhesion.

You can get even more open time by lowering the temperature in the shop. For some, this means turning down the heat. For others, it means cranking up the air conditioning or working in the evening with shop temperatures are lowest.

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VQ21: I can't find 1/8" thick veneer. Why is it so hard to find?

Just to clear things up, any wood that is 1/16" or thicker is generally not called "veneer". It is better referenced as "thin lumber". Now to answer the question... Simple economics.

• The veneer mill can yield a larger amount of usable square feet from a log by slicing the veneers as thin as possible.
• Thinner veneers are not only easier to slice, but are also easier to dry and keep flat.
• Thin lumber is usually cut with a special machine that is designed only to cut this thickness. Normal veneer slicers simply can not create thin lumber.
• The machine designed to cut thin lumber usually wastes a lot of wood; whereas veneer slicing machines yield little to no waste.
• Because of the sawing process used to create thin lumber, it is usually put through a sanding machine. This is not needed on standard veneer thickness due to the slicing action that creates a smooth front and back on the veneer.
• All of these reasons change the profit that can be attained from a veneer log.

This information is not necessarily bad news for the craftsman. The truth is that thin lumber is very hard to keep flat in the shop environment. It is also highly prone to "cold creep" which is the phenomena in which the veneer expands and contracts on the substrate material often causing delamination problems. If you must use a thick veneer, you need an adhesive that is stronger than an ordinary glue. A plastic powder resin (PPR) glue is ideal.

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The paperbacked veneer will not expand and contract at the same rate as the raw wood veneer. This would negate the reason for using a backer/balance veneer for the purpose of maintaining a flat panel after pressing.

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VQ 23: When I buy veneer sheets, how do I order them so that they can be bookmatched?

To successfully bookmatch, quadmatch or sunburst a veneer you need consecutive sheets. In other words they have to be in the order in which they were sliced from the log. About 99% of the veneers sold at VeneerSupplies.com are shipped consecutively. The veneers that are not consecutive are listed as "random" veneers.

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VQ 24: How do I go about sanding a veneer?

Raw wood veneer will always need sanding after it is pressed to a panel. I usually start with a 120 grit paper if I am sanding with a random orbit sander and work to 180 grit. If I am hand sanding, I start with 150 grit. It takes practice to know how far/deep you can sand a veneer. I've sanded through plenty of veneers by accident and it's just a process you have to learn (like falling off a bike). Within 4 or 5 panels, you'll know what you can do with sandpaper.

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