14 Good Reasons
Vacuum Press Uses
Vacuum Press Options
Questions & Answers
Part 2a (Option 1 of 2)
Project: V2 Venturi Press
About Project: V2
Build the Manifold
Build the Reservoirs
Assemble the Venturi
Make the Carrier
Wire the Press
Testing and Adjusting
Mods and Options
Part 2b (Option 2 of 2)
Project: EVS Pump Press
About Project: EVS
Build the Manifold
Build the Sub-Manifold
Build the Reservoirs
Make the Carrier
Wire the Press
Testing and Adjusting
Mods and Options
Vacuum Bag Basics
Polyurethane vs. Vinyl
DIY Vacuum Bags (A)
DIY Vacuum Bags (B)
Connect the Bag
DIY Frame Press
A Sharp Veneer Saw
Dealing with Defects
Curing Glued Panels
Veneering w/o Vacuum
Copper Veneer Guide
Vacuum Clamp Matrix
DIY Vacuum Manifold
Vacuum Press Gallery 1
Vacuum Press Gallery 2
Veneer Glue FAQ
The Vac FAQ
Copper Veneer FAQ
Even the highest grade veneers can have mild to moderate rippling. Crotch and stump veneer almost always arrive with a fair amount of rippling or bubbling. This is typically caused by areas where there is a high density of wood cells which expand and contract at a different rate than areas where the density of wood cells is less.
Veneers that have very slight "bubbling" can be glued to a panel without flattening.
The key is to lightly mist the top side of the veneer with veneer softener after it has been placed on the freshly glued substrate. If you do spritz the veneer face, it's a good idea to mist the balance veneer as well (even if it is not bubbly).
The Quarter Trick
There's an old trick that I learned from a craftsman in Jarrettsville, Maryland for determining whether you need to flatten a veneer before you work with it in a vacuum press. You'll only need to do this trick once to learn when flattening is needed. After the first time, seeing and feeling the veneer will be enough to tell you if flattening is needed. Here's the trick.
Get a quarter ($.25) and place it on the veneer. Move it around the veneer and look for gaps between the veneer and the coin. If any place on the veneer shows more than 1/8" of gap under it, you'll probably need to flatten the veneer. Of course, this is just a rule of thumb. Some exceptionally brittle veneers will need to be flattened completely regardless of the gap. Veneers that are being seamed together to cover a larger surface are much easy to cut and join when they are very flat.
Veneer Softeners 101
I've tried several types of softening solutions. Here's what I've found:
Fabric softener - I know there will be a large handful of readers who will say that they have used fabric softener to make veneer pliable. I won't argue this. Those folks are right. It will make veneer pliable but it will also leave a residue that can catastrophically affect the bonding of the material to the substrate. It can also impact the absorbtion of some wood stains.
Water - Indeed water will have a small and short-lived effect on a veneer's flexibility. It will not condition the wood cells which is critical to getting the veneer flat without splitting. Additionally, if the water dries too fast, the veneer sheet can crack severely.
Homemade Softener - There's an age old veneer softener recipe of consisting of 3 parts water, 2 parts yellow glue, 1 part vegetable glycerin (which can be found at most pharmacies), and 1 part denatured alcohol. This concoction will soften veneer but it's sticky, messy, and hard to dry. It will also seal the wood cells which can have an effect on the wood's ability to accept a stain. If you opt to use homemade veneer softener, you will find that it causes the veneer to stick to the absorbent paper. Combat this by placing a piece of fiberglass cloth between the veneer and the paper. Fiber glass cloth can be found at your local hardware store near the adhesives aisle.
Super Soft 2™ Veneer Softener - Despite its cheesy name, SS2 is by far, the most effective and user friendly veneer softener available. By temporarily plasticizing wood cells, veneers treated with Super-Soft 2 become easy to flatten and unbelievably flexible. It also does not affect the stain absorbing properties of the veneer.
Ultimately, it's the water in this product that makes the veneer soft and pliable. But there is another chemical in Super Soft which is extremely hygroscopic (it attracts moisture). This chemical remains in the veneer even after it feels dry. It is this remnant that keeps some moisture in the veneer and allows the wood to remain soft for several days after the visible water content has evaporated. Check this out... if you get a drop of softener on your work bench and leave it there, the chemicals in SS2 will retain the water content and it won't evaporate for several days!
- Apply by dipping, spraying, or brushing (spraying is ideal). I prefer to spray the veneer until it begins to drip. Be sure to saturate both sides of the veneer. Do not dilute the softener.
- Allow the veneers to stand until the surface is free of shiny, wet areas. Ten minutes is plenty.
- Place absorbent paper between each veneer and place the whole sandwich between two flat boards. Melamine boards work well for small to medium size veneers.
- Apply plenty of weight to the top. With each extra pound of weight, you increase the success rate of the flattening process. I don't recommend flattening more than 4 veneers at a time. If the veneers are extremely brittle or wavy, only flatten 2 at a time.
- Allow this to sit overnight.
- Replace absorbent sheets every 6 hours until the veneer is completely dry. This can take several days. The number of paper changes depends on the thickness of the veneer and ambient temperature. Be aware that if you do not dry the veneer thoroughly, you increase the chance of warping and cracking the finished panel.
- Determining when the softener has fully dried has a lot to do with your senses. If the veneer feels cool, looks dark, or smells a lot like the softener, then it is not quite dry.
- The effects of the softener will last from 4 to 7 days. Be sure to apply your veneer within this time frame or you may have to flatten it again. If you are waiting more than a day or two before bonding the veneer, it's best to keep the veneer stored between to flat boards with some weight on top.
| Which Veneer Are Easy to Flatten?
Based on my own experience... easy, fair, or tedious
| Vacuum Press Helps Flatten Stubborn Veneers
A quick tip from Joe
Apply softener to the sheets and place them in vacuum bag with a top and bottom platen. Place absorbent paper on both sides of each veneer. Vacuum the bag to at least 18" of Hg for an hour.
This will make the veneer flat enough to go into a lesser strength flattening device such as the method described above. Be sure to put paper towels between everything. From there, change the paper every 6 hours until the veneer is dry or use the "speed drying" trick below.
|Super-Soft Speed Drying Trick
Based on an idea
by Gene Young
applying Super-Soft to the veneer, use a clothes iron set on medium heat
to dry and flatten the veneer at the same time. Do this in a well-ventilated area. It's best to put a cotton or flannel cloth between the veneer and the iron. Keep the iron moving continuously around on the veneer.
When the veneer appears to be dry you can prep it for the veneer
press. The effects of the softener are notably shorter with
this trick so be certain to use the veneer as soon as possible.
Otherwise it may ripple again.
Most of what will be evaporated into the air at temperatures above 212F deg will be water. SuperSoft 2 has a very high boiling point, meaning no volatiles will be produced until over 350F degrees. Because it contains some water, it's possible that the steam from the water above 212F degrees will carry some of the softener with it. It's unlikely that the lower temperature will create any volatiles from the veneer softener, so it would be a small amount, if any. If some of the softener does get airborne in the steam, the chemical driven off is diethylene glycol monoethyl ether which, according to the MSDS, it is not expected to be an inhalation hazard. Both circulating and exhaust fans should always be used where volatiles are present.
Alternate Method for Stubborn Veneers
Apply the softener by dipping, spraying, or brushing and allow the veneer to settle between two flat boards and absorbent paper first. Place as much weight as possible on top. Wait 24 hours and then dry out the remaining softener with a clothes iron. This gives the best combination of flattening strength, speed, and durability.
|Questions and Answers
Everything you wanted to know about Super Soft 2.
the softener affect the ability of the veneer to take a stain?
Unlike other softeners, SS2 will not affect the veneer's
ability to accept a stain or dye. It does not contain PVA or other glue-like additives.
How do I know when the veneer softener has dried?
Determining when the softener has fully dried has a lot to do with your senses. If the veneer feels cool, looks dark, or smells a lot like the softener, then it is not quite dry.
the softener flammable?
No. Unlike our competitors, we offer it in a chemical format
that is not flammable.
Does Super Soft 2 leave a glycerin residue when dry?
What kind of incompatibility issues are there with this softener?
So far, we have yet to find any incompatibility issues with veneers treated with SS2. This includes water-based stains and finishes, oil-based stains and finishes, lacquer, conversion varnish, polyurethane, alcohol-based finishes, wood dyes, shellac, and others.
is the shelf life of the softener?
The shelf life is indefinite. It should last forever.
long will softening effect last?
The softening effects vary from one species to another. Some users are finding the flexibility remains for as long as 2 weeks. Generally speaking, you can expect the effects to last from 4 to 7 days.
you ship this stuff abroad?
Yes. We are the only company currently shipping this
new formula to Canada, Alaska, and Hawaii.
Super-Soft 2 make the veneer sticky like homemade softener?
Not at all. The veneer will feel soft and pliable not sticky
How much coverage will I get from a bottle of softener?
There's no way to specify a coverage amount. It really depends on the veneer species, grain, moisture content, and method of application. Most folks find that a quart goes much further than expected.
happened to Super-Soft 1?
We no longer offer the original formula because it wasn't
suitable for use with "clothes iron curing" and the effects
were not as strong as the newer version.
soft does it really make the veneer?
shot the picture at the right to give you an idea as to how
well Super-Soft 2 works. This image shows madrone burl veneer
rolled around a pencil. There are no cracks or splits. If I
can roll a burl veneer this tight, you can probably imagine
the possibilities with complex veneering projects!