 |
 |
|
|
|
|
Part 1
|
A perfect seam line begins with a perfect cut and a sharp veneer saw is the best way to get there. This article explains the simple task of sharpening a standard veneer saw. There are some veneer books that recommend filing off the tips of the saw and then forming new teeth with a file. I can't imagine why an author would put such useless and misleading information in a book. Do not file off the teeth! That would be "pointless". Get it?
Take your time with this process and be cautious that you do not file off the tips of the teeth. They should feel very prickly when you are done. If you over-sharpen the points, they will look and feel flat, and the saw won't cut a veneer very well.
The edge should now be ultra-sharp and ready to crosscut and rip any veneer like a laser.
This veneer saw uses the "ramps" grind which is a much improved design over the traditional "mountain grind". These superb veneer saws are available hand-sharpened on both sides of the blade for a thin, true and laser-like cut. You will cut exceptional seams with this saw and the right cutting technique. |
After beveling the saw teeth, you may need to hone the back side of the blade with the sharpening stone if the back of the teeth do not feel smooth. You'll find that a few seconds of light honing will remove the burr. This process is not done to make the back of the saw blade perfectly flat (that often can not be done with these types of saws). The goal is simply to remove any burrs, but keep in mind that a fine grit sharpening stone may not leave any burrs to begin with. 
 |
 |
|
 |
 |
 |