JoeWoodworker Veneer
The Official Website of this Non-Professional Woodworker ™

Part 1

Veneering Basics

14 Good Reasons
Vacuum Press Uses
Vacuum Press Options

Questions & Answers
Part 2a (Option 1 of 2)
Project: V2 Venturi Press

About Project: V2
Parts List
Build the Manifold
Build the Reservoirs
Assemble the Venturi
Make the Carrier
Wire the Press
Testing and Adjusting
Mods and Options
Part 2b (Option 2 of 2)
Project: EVS Pump Press

About Project: EVS
Parts List
Pump Selection
Build the Manifold
Build the Sub-Manifold
Build the Reservoirs
Make the Carrier
Final Assembly
Wire the Press
Testing and Adjusting
Mods and Options
Part 3
Vacuum Bagging

Vacuum Bag Basics
Polyurethane vs. Vinyl
DIY Vacuum Bags (A)
DIY Vacuum Bags (B)
Connect the Bag
Bag Closures
Bag Platens
Breather Mesh
DIY Frame Press

Part 4
Veneer Information

About Veneer
Veneering Glossary
Veneering Myths
Balancing a Panel

Veneer Glues
Veneering Tips
Substrate Materials
Flattening Veneers
A Sharp Veneer Saw
Jointing Veneers
Taping Veneers
Dealing with Defects
Curing Glued Panels
Veneering w/o Vacuum
Hammer Veneering
Iron-On Veneering
Veneer Storage
Amazing Bookmatches
Copper Veneer Guide
Paperbacked Veneer

Edgebanding Guide

Part 5
Miscellaneous Info

Vacuum Press FAQ
Veneering FAQ
Veneer Glue FAQ
Copper Veneer FAQ
Vacuum Forming
Vacuum Chucking
Vacuum Clamping Pedal
Vacuum Clamping Jigs
Vacuum Clamp Matrix
DIY Vacuum Manifold
Vacuum Press Gallery 1
Vacuum Press Gallery 2
Downloads (PDF's)

Vacuum Veneering - Tips, Tricks, and More

How To Store Wood Veneer

Burl and Crotch Veneer
Some veneers are highly prone to warping. Burls and crotch veneers have unusual cell structures that expand and contract at different rates when there are changes in humidity. These changes then affect the moisture content in those wood cells which causes buckling of the veneer. Burl and crotch veneer can be stored in anything that will prevent changes in moisture content. Shrink wrap, plastic "cling" wrap, or even a trash bag can be used. Store the veneer flat and preferably with some evenly distributed weight on top.

Long Wood Veneer
Straight grain and other non-burl veneers can be pressed between two pieces of MDF or flake board, and leaned against the wall. If you store your veneers in the basement, be sure to put a block of wood underneath just in case your basement ever gets flooded.

Rippled Veneer
If a veneer is not flat, use veneer softener to relax the wood cells so you can flatten it without splitting or cracking. Click here to learn more about the veneer flattening process.

Rolled or Unrolled?
Long wood veneers are typically shipped rolled up. Once they arrive, it's best to slowly and carefully unroll the veneer and then store it flat. Ideally a board and weight should be placed on top of the veneer to minimize changes in moisture content and prevent color fading caused by exposure to UV rays from sun and fluorescent light.

End Tape
Some veneers will arrive with tape on the ends to prevent splitting during transit. To remove the tape without splitting the veneer, pull it off in the direction of the grain. If you pull it across the grain, it may tear the veneer or further tear any existing splits. Some companies recommend that you leave the tape on the veneer until you are ready to use it. I don't recommend this practice because some veneers are capable of expanding and contracting with even the slightest change in humidity. This is especially true of flat cut veneer. The tape can cause the veneer to buckle when it tries to expand or split when it tries to contract. If your veneer has a split, you can prevent it from advancing by place small pieces of blue tape (or standard veneer tape) along the length of the split. This will allow the wood cells to shrink and expand each season without stressing the entire width of the veneer.

Shelf Life
Typically, there is no "shelf life" to a veneer when it is stored properly. I have used elm burl veneer that was sliced in the early 1970's and there was no problem.

Veneer Storage Tips
Small veneers can be placed on a shelf with a piece of plywood or MDF on top. A small amount of even weight over this will help keep flat veneers inline.

Veneers stored in damp environments are subject to patches of mold. To prevent this from occurring, use a dehumidifier in the area where the veneers are kept. And should a patch of mold form, wipe on a light coat of oxalic acid (wood bleach) which is available in most hardware stores. It is often used to clean wood decks. Follow the directions on the container. It will probably cause darker veneers like walnut to lighten up a bit.

For medium sized veneers, I prefer to sandwich them between two oversized sheets of MDF or flakeboard. I then use screws, shrink wrap, or duct tape to hold the sandwich together.

Large veneers can be stored unrolled. I made a shelf above my garage door from a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood. I keep a couple layers of trash bags over the veneers to minimize moisture changes. You also might also be able to convince your spouse to let you store veneer under the couch or coffee table. Some of my best veneers are stored under my bed!

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