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Part 1
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There are times when a vacuum press just is not feasible for a project. Whether it's because the project is too big to fit inside a vacuum bag or too small to invest in a vacuum press, there are other ways to successfully veneer a project. Method 1: Weights and/or Clamps
If you are veneering a large flat panel, you might find that you can get a decent bond by simply using a cold press veneer glue on the substrate and placing a thick platen board on top with as much weight (tools, tool boxes, lumber, etc.) as possible over it. The platen board will help to distribute the weight evenly. It should be as large as the surface you are veneering. I recommend using at least a platen board of at least 3/4". In fact, two 3/4" platen boards are ideal. To keep the veneer and glue from sticking to the platens, place a sheet of wax paper between the platen face and the veneer. For small panels, a single 3/4" platen board and plenty of clamps around the edge will suffice. Keep in mind that this method of veneering requires a very flat veneer. Even if the veneer only has minor ripples in it, you need to flatten it first. If your project has curves or contours, you can place a pillow case filled half way with playground sand over the panel. Then flatten the top of this "sand bag" and place a board and some additional weight on top. I've seen this used on automotive dashboards and it works nicely. Allow 45 to 60 minutes of clamping time and then remove the panel. It is critical that you allow the panel to dry properly. Click here for details about curing a veneered panel. There is also a great article about building a caul press in the September/October issue of American Woodworker magazine on page 30. It's a free download from Google. Method 2: Iron-On Veneering
Method 3: Contact Cement
Contact cement can be used on backed veneers only. It doesn't allow any repositioning of the veneer so you have to be careful with the placement of the sheet. You only get one chance to get it right. I haven't been a big fan of contact cement because the solvent based versions are too harmful and the water based versions didn't seem to work very well. The good news is that there are now a few companies offering a decent water based contact cement. One of these is called Titan DX and it's available at VeneerSupplies.com (my other site). Method 4: Flex-Pro Veneering
Method 5: PSA Veneer
Paper-backed veneers are available with a pressure sensitive adhesive. They are also called "peel and stick veneers" but the industry prefers to call it PSA because this sounds more durable. This upgrade is added to the back of the veneers at the factory. Simply peel off the backing, attach the veneer to your project panel, and trim off the excess. Pressure sensitive adhesive sticks best to lacquered, enameled, or varnished top-coated surfaces which are not peeling, cracking, or flaking and are free of dirt, dust, grime wax or grease. This is great way to re-face kitchen cabinets! If your are veneering a porous surface such as drywall (yes, people do actually veneer over drywall), you can apply two coats of shellac to the substrate and get an exceptional bond from the PSA backer. This can be an expensive route to take for veneering a panel but it is very convenient and quite easy. Method 6: Hide Glue Veneering
Suggested Reading: |
Welcome
This method has recently become very popular. It allows the user to veneer a panel with an ordinary clothes iron. With this method, raw wood and paper-backed veneers can be permanently bonded to flat and convex surfaces. 
Hide glue is the most traditional veneering adhesive. Its use dates back over 4,000 years ago to Egyptians who used it on furniture for the pharaohs. The method is called hammer veneering which derives its name from the use of a tool called a veneer hammer. The hammer is used press the veneer sheets onto the substrate. The method also requires a means of heating the glue typically in a "double boiler." Hide glue is very durable and it can be re-heated and reactivated if bubbling occurs. |
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