Part 1
Introduction
Welcome
Veneering Basics
14 Good Reasons
Vacuum Press Uses
Vacuum Press Options
Overview
Questions & Answers
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Part 2a (Option 1 of 2)
Project: V2 Venturi Press
About Project: V2
Parts List
Build the Manifold
Build the Reservoirs
Assemble the Venturi
Make the Carrier
Wire the Press
Testing and Adjusting
Mods and Options
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Part 2b (Option 2 of 2)
Project: EVS Pump Press
About Project: EVS
Parts List
Pump Selection
Build the Manifold
Build the Sub-Manifold
Build the Reservoirs
Make the Carrier
Final Assembly
Wire the Press
Testing and Adjusting
Mods and Options
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Part 3
Vacuum Bagging
Vacuum Bag Basics
Polyurethane vs. Vinyl
DIY Vacuum Bags (A)
DIY Vacuum Bags (B)
DIY Vacuum Bags (C)
Connect the Bag
Bag Closures
Platens/Cauls
Breather Mesh
Maintenance
DIY Frame Press
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Part 4
Veneer Information
About Veneer
Veneering Myths
Backer Veneer
Veneer Glues
Veneering Tips
Substrate Materials
Flattening Veneers
A Sharp Veneer Saw
Jointing Veneers
Taping Veneers
Dealing with Defects
Curing Glued Panels
Veneering w/o Vacuum
Hammer Veneering
Iron-On Veneering
Veneer Storage
Amazing Bookmatches
Copper Veneer Guide
Paperbacked Veneer
Edgebanding Guide
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Part 5
Miscellaneous Info
Vacuum Forming
Vacuum Chucking
Vacuum Clamping
Vacuum Clamp Matrix
Vacuum Infusing
DIY Vacuum Manifold
JWW Visitors' Vacs
Veneer Quality
Veneering FAQ
Veneer Glue FAQ
The Vac FAQ
Downloads (PDF's)

Very fragile veneers can be stored in a closed trash bag (or other moisture barrier) and stored laying flat. This will prevent seasonal changes in moisture content which can cause veneers to become wavy or rippled. Typically, there is no "shelf life" to a veneer when it is stored properly. I have used elm burl veneer that was sliced in the early 1907's and there was no problem.

Other veneers can be pressed between two pieces of MDF or flake board, and leaned against the wall. If you store your veneers in the basement, be sure to put a block of wood underneath just in case your basement ever gets a small flood.

If a veneer is not stored properly, you can often restore it to a state of flexibility with a coat of veneer softener.

Veneers stored in damp environments are subject to patches of mold. To prevent this from occurring, use a dehumidifier in the area where the veneers are kept. And should a patch of mold form, go to your local hardware store and purchase some oxalic acid (wood bleach). Follow the directions on the container. It will probably cause darker veneers like walnut to lighten up a bit, but the color does return.

If your veneer arrives rolled up, it's best to unroll it (slowly and carefully) and store it horizontally. In an ideal situation, you should place a board on top of the veneer to minimize seasonal changes in moisture content which can cause ripples. At the very least, a cover should be placed over the veneer to prevent color fading caused by exposure to UV and fluorescent light.

Some veneers will arrive with tape on the ends to prevent splitting during transit. To remove the tape without splitting the veneer, pull it off in the direction of the grain. If you pull it across the grain, it may tear the veneer. Some companies recommend that you leave the tape on the veneer until you are ready to use it. I don't recommend this practice. Why? Because veneers are capable of expanding and contracting with even the slightest change in humidity. The tape can cause the veneer to buckle when it tries to expand or split when it tries to contract. If your veneer has a split, you can prevent it from advancing by place small pieces of blue tape (or standard veneer tape) along the length of the split. This will allow the wood cells to shrink and expand each season without stressing the entire width of the veneer.